Gold to Grand Loop
Bikepacking Gold Butte and Grand Canyon-Parashant
Route Guide
Location
Gold Butte - Nevada
Grand Canyon-Parashant - Arizona
Days to Ride
3 - 4 Days
Physical Difficulty*
7/10
Seasons
Best: November; Late January - Early April
Doable: December - Mid-January
Length
130 Miles
Technical Difficulty*
5/10
Primary Surfaces*
4x4 Roads
Rough/Smooth Gravel
Elevation Gain
11,062 Feet
Tire Size
Recommended: 2.6" - 3.0"
*Based on Bikepacking Roots’ Route Rating Scale (More info found under "Route Difficulty, Surface Conditions, and Direction to Ride”)
-
Route Stats
Route Overview
Map and GPX
Alerts and Closures
Route Design Philosophy and Vision
Blogged Trip Reports
Route Description
Route Difficulty, Surface Conditions, and Direction to Ride
When to Ride (Temperature + Climate)
Ecoregions and Landscape
The Bundys and Cows
Where Bikes Are Allowed and Not Allowed
Native Nations and This Land
Leave No Trace and Bikepacking Ethics
Water Sources
Camping
Food and Resupplying
Sample Route Itinerary
Fees and Permits
Getting to the Start
Parking
Additional Important Information
Route Finishers
Acknowledgments
Social Media and Route Updates
2. Gold to Grand Loop Overview
Gold to Grand Loop takes bikepackers on a desert ride through Gold Butte and Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monuments along the Nevada/Arizona border. The route travels across the vast arid basins of the Mojave Desert in addition to tracing and climbing over the pinyon-studded Virgin Mountains. Bikepackers can expect to visit springs providing riparian oases while cycling dirt track along and through exposed, vibrantly colorful geological formations. Gold to Grand Loop meanders within environmentally important habitat for the Mojave desert tortoise but mule deer and big horn sheep are out here too. Junipers and Joshua trees intermix along with creosote and yucca along terrain that ranges from 1400 to 4900 feet. This is a great 3-4 day winter bikepacking trip close to Las Vegas and through the heart of where the Colorado Plateau and the Mojave Desert meet.
The route starts and ends at Whitney Pocket - a series of warped buttes colorfully jutting from the desert floor. The track quickly descends into the heart of Gold Butte, doing a nearly full circumference ride of the national monument while taking in opportunities for side hikes at Little Finland and Seven Keyholes Slot Canyon. Riders are encouraged to take time for historical visits of the old Gold Butte Townsite and to keep an eye open for the many culturally significant petroglyphs dotted across the landscape. Gold to Grand Loop then enters the remote and little-visited Parashant, providing views of the Grand Wash Cliffs that officially mark the end of the Grand Canyon as the stratified layers dive into the Mojave Desert at Lake Mead. Ecologically-rich Pakoon Springs is a riparian thicket to explore while Aravada Springs provides needed water at the top of the Pakoon Basin. The route’s crux is a climb over Lime Kiln Pass where an exhilarating descent through its namesake canyon carries riders to the high desert town of Mesquite, NV for a resupply and burritos. Bikepackers finish the route by ascending back up into Joshua tree groves with a return to Whitney Pocket.
3. Map and GPX
-
Red = Dirt Surface (Rugged, Smooth, or Sandy; Variously Maintained; Doubletrack to Wide)
Brown = Primitive Dirt Surface (Rarely/Never Maintained, Particularly Rocky/Rutted/Eroded)
Blue = Vehicular Pavement
Green = Paved Bike Path
4. Alerts and Closures
This is desert country, which means the landscape is likely to experience oppressing heat during the warmer months. However, snow, monsoon storms, and flash floods are also possible on the route given the proper season and conditions. BEFORE you ride, make sure you CHECK the link below to see if important alerts or closures will affect your riding of the established route. Be prepared to use maps to find alternates should a sudden change in route conditions occur.
Good physical maps for the region can be accessed or purchased below:
5. Route Design Philosophy and Vision
The goals for the route are to:
Do a circumference ride of Gold Butte National Monument.
Stick to well-maintained roads that also travel by the best sights of Gold Butte.
Connect a series of decent backcountry water sources that make a multi-day trip tenable.
Hit up ecologically-interesting Pakoon Springs in the Grand-Canyon Parashant.
When I was designing this route, it was really the water that proved the driving force behind which roads to take. Over 90% of springs have dried up in Gold Butte since the early 1900s. This area is also remote and resupplying options few. When looking at maps of the area, I realized a jaunt over to the Parashant from Gold Butte would make a nice loop and bring opportunities for water at Aravada and Pakoon Springs. The Arizona Strip always beckons for adventure, so I turned my eye to how I could incorporate more riding there while keeping the route to a suitable 3-day trip. The resulting route travels through both National Monuments, provides a ride over the Virgin Mountains, and gives a welcome resupply option at Mesquite, NV.
6. Blogged Trip Reports
These are my blogged trip reports and photos from past rides of the route.
7. Route Description
Start your ride from the large dirt parking lot at Whitney Pocket. In fact, camp here the night before and use the time to hike around and check out the geologically iconic butte formations in the area. There are copious Joshua trees and historical sites, including an old CCC dam. Leave your car parked tucked away in a corner of the parking area and push off for an immediate descent into Gold Butte National Monument on dirt.
The land gives way to layers of stunning colorful rock. Make sure to stop and look behind you too to take it all in. This portion of the route follows the Gold Butte Backcountry Byway so expect some ATVs. Make your way to the Devil's Throat and walk the perimeter of the large sinkhole. Jump back on the bike and head west on Mud Wash Road. It undulates towards Mud Wash proper where you join the gravel streambed and course through a stunning bottleneck of adjoining buttes. The red rock formations get prominent and many feature petroglyphs. Stop at the old corral where you can stash your bike and then hike along the trail to Little Finland; plan to spend some time there wandering among the sandstone spires, buttes, fins, and striations. Return to your bike and continue through layers of Earth that box up around you until you see the rise of Bitter Ridge and its colorful cliffs ahead. Mud Wash Road begins a hairpin turn along the base of the cliffs.
Head south doing a gradual ascent on Narrows Road that gains a hillside to provide some sweeping views. The road is in good shape and eventually takes you to the turnoff for Seven Keyholes Slot Canyon. Take the side-ride up a ridge and over to the day-use parking area. Leave your bike and take the short hike into the valley. The trailhead takes a sharp right into a short slot canyon that provides shade, beauty, and vegetation. The whole area has petroglyphs, so keep an eye open. Hike back to your bike and continue south on Red Bluff Spring Road. This is a long and gradual climb to Gold Butte Townsite, but the road is in good shape and the grades not too steep. Plus, abundant Joshua trees and mountains make the landscape beautiful.
Arrive at historic Gold Butte Townsite where a now-abandoned city of a couple thousand people once lived at the height of its gold rush. The Townsite sits at the base of the Gold Butte mountain, proper. Now all that's left are old mining equipment and a cemetery. Camp for the night and wander the historical site in the morning. Afterward, gain the last climb on the pass and stare down Horse Creek Wash to the distant basins of Greasewood and Wechech punctuated by the Mud Hills. The Joshua trees will build up quickly into a dense canopy you'll bisect on a descent north through Paradise Valley. Take the turn onto Horse Spring Road for a ride through even denser Joshua tree groves as Tramp Ridge rises dramatically to your left. The doubletrack decays a bit before turning into a wash near Horse Spring. Get a good refill here as this is a quality source. Then, it's back towards Gold Butte Road on some chunky/primitive but short-lived doubletrack across desert scrub.
The rest of the ride down Gold Butte Road is pure bliss as parallel Tramp Ridge shoots up gorgeous layers of rock and the colorful pigments leach and coagulate in interesting folds and smears on the landscape around you. Arrive at St. Thomas Gap where a right begins to carry you away from Gold Butte. Make sure you're prepared for the next section and have plenty of water: it's incredibly remote and little-visited. Continue east on Grand Wash Road that descends several thousand feet. Cross into Arizona and into the Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument. It's beautiful land out here and the distant walls of rock visible many miles away are the Grand Wash Cliffs. These are the gatekeepers for the end of the Grand Canyon; all that stratified rock will plunge into Lake Mead amongst the Mojave Desert officiating the terminus of Grand Canyon country. If you keep going on this road, you can end up descending to Lake Mead. Instead, you'll descend down the Black Wash to 1800 feet before taking a turn northeast. Grand-Canyon Parashant can be utter glory, but the middle of its stomach can be deadly hot - I wouldn't recommend riding past early April in this area with it all low and buttressed up by rockwall radiating heat.
Carry on northeast up Cottonwood Wash on some great grade of road that weaves in and out of washes and past rock formations. You'll eventually arrive at Pakoon Springs. This is an ecologically important area for endangered relict leopard frogs. Until 2002, an alligator lived in the springs (introduced mid-century by a rancher) before being removed by the NPS. Pakoon Springs is being rehabilitated back to its natural beauty. You can get water here but it's not the best and often difficult to find; the area is brushy and you must take care not to trample the wetlands for the leopard frogs. There are a few pools of water you can draw marshy water from if you look carefully but these are, again, difficult to find; if you can, plsn to hold off and get water from Aravada Springs instead. Past Pakoon Springs serious climbing is required. Enjoy the views out towards Cottonwood Ridge in the east and the Cockscomb in the west. The climb continues steeply up to Aravada Springs near Whitney Pass.
Aravada Springs is a privately-owned campground at the intersection of Whitney Ridge and South Virgin Peak Ridge. Camping, cabins, water, and a small general store are on the premises. It's only open March - November, so keep that in mind with your planning. However, cyclists have permission to enter the property to get water at all times of year (see the “Water Sources” section for more information). Past here you'll keep to a contour line before a rocky descent into Hungry Valley with red-sand terrain complete with Joshua trees. The road quickly improves and meanders along the base of the Virgin Mountains in the Parashant. The peaks will be encrusted with white snow set to contrast the desert biome you'll be riding through if there's been recent winter storms. Undulate across the landscape to the base of Red Pockets Mountain. Turn left to begin the climb up to Lime Kiln Pass, the crux of the route.
This section starts out with some easy climbing and pockets of interesting rock formations to explore nearby. But a few miles from the top of the pass, Lime Kiln Canyon Road decays into rocky splatter that will require a hike-a-bike for most. Keep pushing and take time to enjoy the dramatic views. You'll hit Lime Kiln Pass, enjoy some excellent red sandstone, and then begin an equally rocky descent down - again, take care and you may need to walk some parts. As you enter Lime Kiln Canyon, the road improves and you can start an exhilarating downhill through groves of juniper. Look around on the stately rock walls as this is a popular rock climbing area. Dispersed camping also abounds. The descent continues swiftly back towards the high desert below as Lime Kiln Canyon gives way to the north foothills of the Virgin Mountains.
Arrive in Mesquite, NV for a resupply and food at La Mexicana Grocery Store Market. Head to the back of the store for freshly baked goods from the panaderia or hit up its carniceria for excellent burritos. Or, simply grab some snacks and head on. There's a great paved multi-use greenway that carries bikepackers out of town for several miles parallel to the Virgin River. The paved path gives way to highway shoulder along the lightly trafficked Riverside Road. A few miles later, turn left onto Gold Butte Road which has even less traffic. The road is technically paved, but I think of it more as "semi-paved." It's a quilted patchwork of sealed cracks, pot holes, and a mosaic of decades of asphalt. There are some sections that are just plain unpaved dirt stretches. You might even find it easier (and watch vehicles do the same) to ride on the dirt shoulders.
Ride this semi-paved surface parallel to the Virgin River before you turn left to begin a steep but constant climb into the Virgin Mountain foothills on a dirt road. The track starts firm but quickly becomes soft with loose gravel and sand. Choose a granny gear and embrace the landscape. A few miles later the track firms up again as you cross grasslands high above the Virgin Valley below. Soon the route weaves into a number of pocked valleys filled with Joshua tree groves and framed by limestone peaks. Hit up reliable Government Spring for one last water resupply before a fun descent towards Little Virgin Peak and reentry into Gold Butte National Monument. The hillsides will open before you into a dramatic spread of Joshua trees and high desert as you join pavement once more. Look to your right and you'll see the waters of Lake Mead out in the distance. Finally, you'll arrive back at Whitney Pocket where you started along with its mash of rock buttes and color.
8. Route Difficulty, Surface Conditions, and Direction to Ride
Route Difficulty
Physical Difficulty = 7/10 (Very rugged terrain with abundant climbing, some of which is very steep and unrideable)
Technical Difficulty = 5/10 (Continuous sections of track may be rocky, loose, and steep; (e.g., 4×4 roads or singletrack in rugged/rocky terrain) suitable for intermediate mountain bikers)
The technical difficulty is due to the occasional rocky sections and mild but short sandy sections. Most of this is concentrated near Lime Kiln Pass, Aravada Springs, and riding down Mud Wash Road. The 3-4 mile section over Lime Kiln Pass is particularly technical. But it is stands as an outlier from the rest of the route.
The physical difficulty is mostly due to frequent and sometimes steep climbing. There is copious sustained ascending across many portions of this route between basins, valleys, and mountain passes. Some of these will feel especially unrelenting given their length and grade.
Noteworthy Climbs
Ascending to Lime Kiln Pass to get over the Virgin Mountains. Definitely the crux.
The long, steep climb from Pakoon Springs to Aravada Springs.
Climbing up the soft sand/dirt road from the Virgin River to Government Spring near the end.
The climb up to Gold Butte Townsite from Mud Wash.
Finally, there are conditions difficulties on this route. These include temperature, environment, and remoteness.
During the months of April - October, expect dangerous and deadly heat conditions. I advise against riding the route during that time.
This is a desert biome. This means aridity and scarcity of water. Riders will need to carry 6 - 10 liters of water for their well-being.
Grand-Canyon Parashant in particular is extremely remote and little visited. There are no services, no cell phone service, and no ranger stations where this route goes. Be prepared to be self-sufficient.
Surface Conditions
The Gold to Grand Loop sticks to dirt dirt roads that course across the public lands of Gold Butte and the Parashant. The dirt roads run from smooth as silk and suitable for skinny tires to rocky, rugged with embedded rock, graveled, and sandy. In all, expect both extremely rough surfaces as well as fast hardpack. Washboard is found in some locations. The approximately four miles of dirt that climb up and over Lime Kiln Pass are really rocky, rutted, primitive, and will require most bikepackers to hike-a-bike. But the views are exceptional and abate the difficulty of this crux of the route.
In inclement weather, the southeast portions of the route around Grand Canyon-Parashant NM will become impassable, due either to washouts, flash flooding, or rare sections of peanut butter mud. Stay safe and stay out of washes or low areas at those times. During fall/early winter, most of the roads along the route may be more eroded and rocky due to the summer's monsoons. Expect the best road conditions in late winter/spring.
Noteworthy Primitive, Rocky Surfaces
The climb up and over Lime Kiln Pass on either side of the saddle can be a minefield of large rocks and decayed track.
The connector from Horse Springs to Gold Butte Road is along a wash and then over lots of babyheads. It's a short connector though and that water is worth it.
Mud Wash can get very sandy and soft.
The climb from the Virgin River to Government Spring has approximately three miles of soft/sandy washboard.
Noteworthy Vehicular Pavement
Riverside Road/170: Stretches from Bunkerville to the turn onto the Gold Butte Backcountry Byway. It's smooth pavement but with little shoulder. However, traffic is light and mostly involves ATVs heading into the hills from Mesquite.
Gold Butte Backcountry Byway: Technically this is pavement, but I really think of it as semi-paved. A 2WD vehicle can travel down it, but the road is a patchwork of smooth alphalt, terrible quilted sealing/pothole patches, and decades of disrepair. In fact, sections of straight up dirt just happen for portions. There are vehicles/ATVs heading to Gold Butte, but they are polite and pass with room. Traffic is overall light.
Direction to Ride
The route is intended to be ridden in a counterclockwise direction. The reasons for this include:
A more advantageous climb and descent over Lime Kiln Pass in this direction.
Spreading out springs.
Hitting Aravada Springs at a point later in the trip where a resupply is valuable.
Saving Mesquite, NV near the end as a well-placed resupply and reward after ascending/descending Lime Kiln Pass.
9. When to Ride (Temperature + Climate)
-
When: November; Late January - Early April
Average Highs:
60 - 81 F
Average Lows:
34 - 51 F
Precipitation:
0.57 - 1.34"
Snow:
Possible at Higher Elevations
-
Spring wildflower blooms are awesome if there's been good precipitation during the winter.
The Virgin Mountains look amazing and snowcapped if there's been winter storms.
Water sources are likely to be well-filled and flowing if there's been good winter precipitation.
Roads are in better, less-eroded condition.
Temperatures are less cold at night and getting to longer days the further into spring you get.
Winter storms could leave some snow on Lime Kiln Pass making it more difficult on that portion (but this is typically rare).
May be easier finding water at Pakoon Springs.
Facilities open at Aravada Springs in November and March. They are closed in January and February. Water is still available for cyclists even during the off-season.
-
When: December - Mid-January
Average Highs:
59 - 69 F
Average Lows:
33 - 43 F
Precipitation:
0.62 - 0.67"
Snow:
Possible at Higher Elevations
-
Virgin Mountains will be nice and cool compared to the newly cooling desert below.
Shortening days and longer nights mean colder conditions overall.
Cottonwoods and other plants putting on fall foliage colors.
Water sources could be dry if there's not been a good monsoon season.
Roads are likely to be more eroded/rutted if there's been a good monsoon season.
May be more difficult finding water at Pakoon Springs.
Aravada Springs facilities closed for the winter (water still available for cyclists)
-
When: Late April - October
Average Highs:
81 - 108 F
Average Lows:
55 - 77 F
Precipitation:
0.19 - 1.33"
Snow:
0.0"
-
Dangerous and potentially deadly heat along the lower portions of the route near Mesquite, the Virgin River, and GC-Parashant.
Cottonwoods at springs will have vivid green colors.
Water sources in the early summer could be very low to dry before summer monsoons.
Not a time to be biking through the heart of canyons in the desert.
For each 1000 feet of gain in elevation, temperatures drop by about 3.3 degrees F. Keep in mind that the high points of the route at Gold Butte Townsite, Aravada Springs, and Lime Kiln Pass may be close to 11 degrees F coolor than in Mesquite, NV. As well, they may experience higher precipitation amounts (including infrequent/rare snow on Lime Kiln Pass).
All the data above are presented as ranges of monthly averages.
***Visit these links to view further climate information:
10. Ecoregions and Landscape
The Gold to Grand Loop travels through several ecoregions highly influenced by elevation.
Creosote Bush-Dominated Basins
Locations on Route: Whitney Pockets, Mud Wash, Little Finland, St. Thomas Gap, Pakoon Springs, Descent to Mesquite, NV, Little Virgin Peak and Entrance to Gold Butte NM
Description: Large basin valleys between the ranges in the Mojave Desert. Elevations tend to be low and plant life is mostly creosote bushes, grasses, and bursage. Common animals include kangaroo mice and Mojave desert tortoises.
Arid Footslopes
Locations on Route: Whitney Pockets, Western Foothills of Virgin Mountains, Seven Keyholes Slot Canyon, Climb to Gold Butte Townsite, Descent from Gold Butte Townsite, Pakoon Springs, Aravada Springs
Description: These are the alluvial fans and hills that rise above the valley floors. Blackbrush dominates the upper slopes while Joshua trees and yuccas are found in rocky locations. Reptiles are common.
Arid Valleys and Canyonlands
Locations on Route: Gold Butte Townsite, Southern End of GC-Parashant, Mesquite, NV, Riverside Road along the Virgin River
Description: Low-lying and steep canyons near the Colorado River/Lake Mead. Dry and extremely hot, plants include creosotes, brittlebrush, and even ocotillos in places.
Middle Elevation Mountains
Locations on Route: Lime Kiln Pass in the Virgin Mountains, Lime Kiln Canyon
Description: Exemplified by the Virgin Mountains as a slice of the Arizona/New Mexico Plateau where Gambel oak and canyon maple mix with pinyon and juniper. These plants merge on the lower slopes of the mountains with Joshua trees and Mojave yucca. The highest slopes have isolated populations of firs growing.
11. The Bundys and Cows
Cows are a prevalent presence on the route and it seems a great deal of them are from the Bundys. For those unaware, Cliven Bundy and his family are local ranchers that have continued to illegally graze their cattle (nearly a thousand) in Gold Butte despite orders from judges and the Bureau of Land Management to remove them and pay over $1 million in unpaid grazing fees. The Bundys have steadfastly refused. The result in 2014 was an armed standoff between the BLM and the Bundys (with their militia supporters) when the BLM was tasked with rounding up the cattle.
Ultimately, the trespass cattle were released.
For a few years after 2014, federal managers stayed away from the Monument for their personal safety. The result was bullet-holes in important cultural sites and petroglyphs, illegal trenching for springs/irrigation, and chopped down Joshua trees. Sites important and sacred to several Paiute Tribes were damaged and disrespected. The Moapa Band of Paiutes and Friends of Gold Butte both began lobbying the government for National Monument status of the area. Notably, it was the ancestors of the Moapa Band of Paiutes who made those petroglyphs. Gold Butte was originally part of their reservation, let alone their rightful land prior to US government reservation lines in the 1800s. Even then, the land was later excised. The work of all these organizations resulted in the formation of Gold Butte National Monument by President Barack Obama in 2016.
Despite all this, Bundy's cattle remain. You'll see them out there on the route. They shouldn't be there for legal, ecological, and ethical reasons, but you'll see them. If you want to help the Gold Butte area out, make a donation and support Friends of Gold Butte whose goals include preserving a healthy landscape at the National Monument. More recent information on the Bundys and Gold Butte can be found in this recent article.
12. Where Bikes Are Allowed and Not Allowed
Bikes are allowed to travel on all established roads within the National Monuments. But please: keep to the roads. Gold Butte is an environmentally significant area for Mojave desert tortoises and off-road travel tramples their habitat. In addition, cryptobiotic crust is found along the route. Don't trample it as it keeps the soil solid and resistant to erosion. Lastly, Gold Butte Road travels along the boundary of the Lime Canyon Wilderness; don't take your bike into the Wilderness Area.
13. Native Nations and This Land
Gold Butte and GC-Parashant are the current and traditional home to several federally recognized Tribes (as well as other non-federally recognized tribes), including the Moapa Band of Paiutes who are part of the Southern Paiutes.
The Moapa River Indian Reservation is just northeast of the route, and it should be noted that Gold Butte was once a part of their reservation. More-so, this land is Their land, regardless of reservation boundaries. Know that Native people are absolutely still here in the area, and have been here for thousands of years. Much of the groundwork and vocal pushing for National Monument status was done by these Tribes to protect their ancestral heritage.
As a bikepacker traveling across the landscape, make sure to Recreate with Respect and Act with Care.
14. Leave No Trace and Bikepacking Ethics
Bikepackers, like all backcountry users, leave an impact on the land, vegetation, and wildlife of the places they travel through. Leave No Trace outlines specific actions that bikepackers can take to minimize their impact on the land. Below are some considerations I would urge bikepackers on the COTC to take that are specific to this area.
Travel + Camp on Durable Surfaces
This is the desert, so life grows by the inch but dies by the foot and tire tread. Keep your riding to established roads to avoid trampling or disturbing cryptobiotic crust or habitat for arid vegetation and Mojave desert tortoises. If you happen to use the springs on route, make sure to avoid crushing delicate riparian vegetation and be aware of endangered species like relict leopard frogs that might be using that same water source.
Look but Don't Disturb or Photo-Geotag Cultural and Archeological Items
There are parts of this route that may pass by unmarked sensitive cultural/historical/archeological sites or items. If you see or stumble on something, look at it, enjoy it, and learn more about the item when back in the frontcountry. Leave it exactly where it is and do not collect it. DO NOT post locations, geotag photos, or post the items on social media. This is at the request of both the Native Tribes of the area, Grand Canyon National Park, and Kaibab National Forest.
Avoid touching these items as well. Remember that this place is a Living Landscape to many Native groups - this means all items contain a life force and are alive in some way that creates a balance of nature. Take on an approach that treats all things (animate, inanimate, natural, cultural, etc.) as deserving the respect, dignity, and privacy that we would want/expect for ourselves by others. Looking through this different "cultural lens" takes some work. Taking these actions are an opportunity to demonstrate respect and awareness of Indigenous perspectives of the world.
Leave No Trace is much bigger than just these. Both Bikepacking Roots and Bikepacking.com have excellent resources on Leave No Trace for backcountry cyclists. These include:
Plan Ahead + Prepare
Travel + Camp on Durable Surfaces
Dispose of Waste Properly
Leave What You Find
Minimize Campfire Impacts
Respect Wildlife
Be Considerate of Other Visitors
Bikepacking Roots has the Love Where Your Ride Campaign where they partnered with the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics to make bikepacking specific principles. Visit the site to see a breakdown of each principle listed above.
Backpacking.com has the Leave No Trace for Bikepackers: Ride. Camp. Respect principles where they outline many of the same items listed above but also include Know the Land and Represent the Community (both excellent inclusions). Visit their website to read more.
15. Water Sources
Suggested Water Carrying Capacity: 6 - 10 Liters
This quantity depends on the season, temperature, your own body’s needs, etc.
This is NOT the route to be messing around with how little water you think you can get by with to save weight.
This is a dry desert environment and very remote. Be smart about your water resupplying. The springs listed on the route range from reliable to unreliable; they’ll be especially good after some solid winter precipitation. If it's been a dry winter or fall, some of these sources may be empty. Plan to carry several liters of water, sometimes enough to last at least 24 hours and more than you think you'll need should you arrive at a source and find it dry.
The best springs on-route are Horse, Aravada, and Government. Definite water can be found at Aravada Springs and Mesquite, NV. You may find a few other sources out there in dirt cattle ponds and old unmaintained pipes. Jim Boone, an ecologist in the area, told me that over 90% of the springs that used to run in Gold Butte from the early 1900s are now dry. The ones I listed are the ones he recommended and that I’ve confirmed. If you want a few more sources off-route (literally a couple thousand feet of elevation loss/gain and many miles), hit up Mockingbird and Agua Chiquita south of Gold Butte Townsite.
IMPORTANT: Definite water is available for bikepackers in addition to overnight tent camping at Aravada Springs Campground. But the following procedures MUST be followed:
Each cyclist or group traveling together will need to call the reservation phone number 801-431-4950 (in-season March-November) or 435-994-5537 (out-of-season December - February). Do this BEFORE leaving to start the route as there is no cell phone reception once you head into Gold Butte and the Parashant. Give your name, the number of people arriving with you, what date you plan to arrive, and if you are able to give an approximate time of arrival. This will allow Aravada Springs to make sure the gate is open and that their Ranch Manager is aware of your arrival. The gate is usually open, so hopefully there will not be any issues with it not being open.
Bikepackers will not need to check in with anyone. You are welcome to get water, use the restrooms located by the pond, and then leave. However, remember this is private property so be respectful and act as an ambassador of the route. We want to keep good relationships.
You can collect water from the pipe that comes out of the hill near the pond. This pipe comes directly from Aravada Springs's culinary water system which comes from natural cold water springs located on the property. They test the water regularly but the state of Nevada lists their water as non-potable, so treat/filter it if you want. Cyclists are also welcome to use the white outdoor sink located behind the kitchen if it has not been winterized. It is located in the back right corner behind the kitchen building, which is the third main building on your right after entering the property and just after the covered outdoor eating area with picnic tables. Finally, if the restrooms are open (next to the kitchen building and featuring two white doors on a dark wood building) you may get water from those sinks.
Aravada Springs is open seasonally from March - November. It is closed seasonally December - February. Bikepackers are welcome to enter the property at any time of year for water.
Water Datasheet:
-
Route Mile: 33
Reliability Scale: (1) Unreliable.
Only running and filled when there have been recent winter storms with good precipitation. Otherwise, this will be dry.
Description: A large concrete cattle trough filled by a piped spring. The source of the spring can be found by continuing to walk into the rocky foothills down the doubletrack. You may be able to find some puddles in human/animal dug holes. But that's a big maybe and only if there has been recent snow/rain.
-
Route Mile: 39
Reliability Scale: (3) Mostly Reliable.
Typically filled with water, but it could be empty during exceptionally hot and dry periods of drought. This is a piped spring.
Description: Metal cattle trough in a fenced area. The piped spring produces enough water that much spills over into a side-pond. This metal trough is the result of rogue ranchers digging up and developing the spring.
Find the spring by walking north down the wash towards the old corral. Look right up the bank for an entrance to the metal trough through a fenced area.
-
Route Mile: 62
Reliability Scale: (1) Unreliable.
Runs year-round, but it can be very difficult to find an open pool to draw water from amongst the thick vegetation. It's easiest to find a pool of water during early spring when plant growth is dormant and the riparian floor is more open. It's harder in the fall when vegetation covers the floor.
Description: Water seeps from the Earth and runs muddy and trickling down the hillside. Follow the path into the spring area through the fence from the little parking lot. Take a left and walk over to where large green grasses are growing. It'll be swampy, but if you look through the fallen detritus, you can can find shallow pools at the surface. It'll be muddy/marshy.
Endangered relict leopard frogs live here, so don't trample the pools/spring.
-
Route Mile: 73
Reliability Scale: (4) Definite.
IMPORTANT: Bikepackers MUST use the following procedures on this private property:
Each cyclist or group traveling together will need to call the reservation phone number 801-431-4950 (in-season March-November) or 435-994-5537 (out-of-season December - February). Do this BEFORE leaving to start the route as there is no cell phone reception once you head into Gold Butte and the Parashant. Give your name, the number of people arriving with you, what date you plan to arrive, and if you are able to give an approximate time of arrival. This will allow Aravada Springs to make sure the gate is open and that their Ranch Manager is aware of your arrival. The gate is usually open, so hopefully there will not be any issues with it not being open.
Bikepackers will not need to check in with anyone. You are welcome to get water, use the restrooms located by the pond, and then leave. However, remember this is private property so be respectful and act as an ambassador of the route. We want to keep good relationships.
You can collect water from the pipe that comes out of the hill near the pond. Cyclists are also welcome to use the white outdoor sink located behind the kitchen if it has not been winterized. It is located in the back right corner behind the kitchen building, which is the third main building on your right after entering the property and just after the covered outdoor eating area with picnic tables. Finally, if the restrooms are open (next to the kitchen building and featuring two white doors on a dark wood building) you may get water from those sinks.
Aravada Springs is open seasonally from March - November. It is closed seasonally December - February. Bikepackers are welcome to enter the property at any time of year for water.
Description: Collect water from the pipe that comes out of the hill near the pond. This pipe comes directly from Aravada Springs's culinary water system which comes from natural cold water springs located on the property. They test the water regularly but the state of Nevada lists their water as non-potable, so treat/filter it if you want.
-
Route Mile: 90
Reliability Scale: (2/3) Seasonal/Mostly Reliable.
Typically filled with water, but it could be empty during exceptionally hot and dry periods of drought.
Description: Metal cattle trough right off the main road on a dirt doubletrack spur. It's in a fenced area you can walk into.
-
Route Mile: 100
Reliability Scale: (4) Definite.
Description: Lots of grocery and convenience stores for getting water.
-
Route Mile: 118
Reliability Scale: (3) Mostly Reliable.
Typically filled with water, but it could be empty during exceptionally hot and dry periods of drought.
Description: A massive concrete cistern filled to the brim with water from a piped spring. The water is clear, cold, and copious.
**Water sources in the Southwest are often ephemeral or unreliable. To help give riders a sense of water availability, I've rated sources using the scale below.
Water Reliability Scale
1 = unreliable; 2 = seasonal;
3 = mostly reliable; 4 = definite source
16. Camping
There is abundant dispersed camping across the public lands of Gold Butte and GC-Parashant National Monuments; both are managed by the Bureau of Land Management. Try to camp in already-impacted sites with durable surfaces. Always camp 0.25 miles or further from springs/water sources. I've noted a few great camping spots along the route for your consideration. If you want to camp at the start and end of the route, Whitney Pocket has some epic dispersed sites set amid its excellent geological formations.
Aravada Springs Campground has agreed to let bikepackers tent camp at their private property, so a big thank you goes out to them! IMPORTANT: Definite water available for bikepackers in addition to overnight tent camping. But the following procedures MUST be followed:
Each cyclist or group traveling together will need to call the reservation phone number 801-431-4950 (in-season March-November) or 435-994-5537 (out-of-season December - February). Do this BEFORE leaving to start the route as there is no cell phone reception once you head into Gold Butte and the Parashant. Give your name, the number of people arriving with you, what date you plan to arrive, and if you are able to give an approximate time of arrival. This will allow Aravada Springs to make sure the gate is open and that their Ranch Manager is aware of your arrival. The gate is usually open, so hopefully there will not be any issues with it not being open.
Bikepackers will not need to check in with anyone. You are welcome to get water, use the restrooms located by the pond, and then leave. However, remember this is private property so be respectful and act as an ambassador of the route. We want to keep good relationships.
Tent camping will be available for bikepackers. There is an orchard on the northeast end of the pond where tents can be set up. The cost is $20.00 per night, cash-only. When you call to notify Aravada Springs of your visit, you can make arrangements to tent camp.
Complete a Bikepacking Registration Form and a Liability Waiver for Aravada Springs. - both are required for every cyclist overnight camping on the property. You can either print them yourself and bring them, or Aravada Springs will have them available in a box next to the registration office. Make sure to place them in the drop box at the registration office in addition to your payment when you leave. There will also be comment cards available if you wish to leave comments or any feedback.
17. Food and Resupplying
The only reliable food resupply option on the route is in Mesquite, NV. This means bikepackers should expect to carry several days of food at a time.
Mile 100 - Mesquite, NV: Full services, grocery stores, and restaurants. Grab food, burritos, and tacos at La Mexicana Grocery Store Market or groceries at the Family Dollar.
18. Sample Route Itineraries
These are suggested itineraries. Use them as rough guides for your own planning purposes. Feel free to use them, adapt them, or don't use them at all and make your own plans. Plan your trip on this route based on your own strengths, comfortabilities, experiences, wants, and needs.
3 Day Itinerary
-
Mileage: 33 Miles
Elevation Gain: 2700 ft.
Description: Make today about side-hikes and exploration. Leave your car at Whitney Pocket and head south to the Devil's Throat before joining Mud Wash. Take a side-hike out to Little Finland and take another side-hike at Seven Keyholes Slot Canyon. End the day biking up to Gold Butte Townsite where there are plenty of spots to dispersed camp.
Water: Carry enough to last you 24 hours. Granite Spring at Gold Butte Townsite may have water but is unreliable.
Resupply: None
Camping: Dispersed camping at Gold Butte Townsite.
-
Mileage: 50 Miles
Elevation Gain: 3900 ft.
Description: Head downhill and get some water at Horse Spring. Then head down and into the Grand Canyon-Parashant. Wind north and stop at Pakoon Springs. Then, it's a big climb up to Aravada Springs for water. Push on and continue to a dispersed camping spot at the base of Red Pockets Mountain.
Water: Horse Spring, Pakoon Spring, Aravada Springs
Resupply: None
Camping: Dispersed camping at the bottom of the climb to Lime Kiln Pass near Red Pockets Mountain.
-
Mileage: 48 Miles
Elevation Gain: 4600 ft.
Description: Do the crux climb up and over the Virgin Mountains at Lime Kiln Pass. Then, descend to Mesquite, NV for some excellent burritos and food! Ride pavement along the Virgin River before a big climb on soft dirt/sand back up to Whitney Pocket and the finish.
Water: Mesquite, NV and Government Spring
Resupply: Mesquite, NV at La Mexicano Grocery Store Market for some excellent food. Get water too!
Camping: Finish! Camp at Whitney Pocket if you want to spend the night at the finish.
4 Day Itinerary
-
Mileage: 33 Miles
Elevation Gain: 2700 ft.
Description: Make today about side-hikes and exploration. Leave your car at Whitney Pocket and head south to the Devil's Throat before joining Mud Wash. Take a side-hike out to Little Finland and take another side-hike at Seven Keyholes Slot Canyon. End the day biking up to Gold Butte Townsite where there are plenty of spots to dispersed camp.
Water: Carry enough to last you 24 hours. Granite Spring at Gold Butte Townsite may have water but is unreliable.
Resupply: None
Camping: Dispersed camping at Gold Butte Townsite.
-
Mileage: 40 Miles
Elevation Gain: 3300 ft.
Description: Head downhill and get some water at Horse Spring. Then head down and into the Grand Canyon-Parashant. Wind north and stop at Pakoon Springs. Then, it's a big climb up to Aravada Springs for water. Tent camp here by calling ahead and letting them know you are a bikepacker.
Water: Horse Spring, Pakoon Spring, Aravada Springs
Resupply: None
Camping: Tent camping is available for cyclists at Aravada Springs if they call beforehand and complete the requisite permission forms. See the section “Camping” for more information.
-
Mileage: 27 Miles
Elevation Gain: 1900 ft.
Description: Take a late morning enjoying Aravada Springs. Then head out and explore the Gibson-Jones ghost ranch and do some side hiking at Red Rock Cove near the base of Red Pocket Mountain. Do the crux climb up and over the Virgin Mountains at Lime Kiln Pass. Then, descend to Mesquite, NV for some excellent burritos and food! Either spend the night dispersed outside of town on BLM land or grab lodging in town.
Water: Mesquite, NV
Resupply: Mesquite, NV at La Mexicano Grocery Store Market for some excellent food. Get water too!
Camping: Dispersed camping on BLM land outside of Mesquite, NV or get lodging in town
-
Mileage: 30 Miles
Elevation Gain: 3300 ft.
Description: Ride pavement along the Virgin River before a big climb on soft dirt/sand back up to Whitney Pocket and the finish.
Water: Mesquite, NV and Government Spring
Resupply: None
Camping: Finish! Camp at Whitney Pocket if you want to spend the night at the finish.
19. Fees and Permits
Gold Butte National Monument and Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument have no fees or required permits.
A Recreational Land Use Permit is required for any travel or camping on Arizona State Lands. Apply for and pay for one before you head out on the route. Carry it with you. You cross through a parcel of Arizona State Lands in the Parashant.
20. Getting to the Start
Las Vegas is about a 1-1.5 hour drive from the start of the route. This makes flying or driving to the route convenient. There are numerous car rental companies available in Las Vegas. The start of the route is a 2WD mostly-paved approach to Whitney Pocket making car rental feasible. In addition, the Salt Lake Express bus/shuttle line does a route that stops in Mesquite, NV along the northern part of the route. The company lists the following pertaining to bikes and Shuttle Luggage Space: "We plan on a reasonable amount of luggage on each shuttle. If you will have more than two (2) suitcases and a carry on, you need to call the office to make sure we will have room. If you show up with more than this, we will accept it on a space available basis. Also, you may be charged $10.00 per suitcase or box over the two (2) suitcases allowed. For example, if you would like to bring your bicycle, we just need a minimum of 24 hours advance notice and as mentioned previously, there will be an additional $10.00 fee."
21. Parking
Park your vehicle in the large dirt parking lot at Whitney Pocket at the end of the pavement in Gold Butte National Monument. Go find a back corner or side area to leave it for your duration of your ride. Parking is free and doesn't require a permit.
22. Additional Important Information
Friends of Gold Butte:
Consider supporting the local nonprofit looking to preserve and improve Gold Butte National Monument. They also put on volunteer events and work with various organizations in the region to protect and enhance Gold Butte National Monument. Check them out!
ATVs:
ATVs are common along the roads of Gold Butte and the Parashant. However, I have found drivers are pretty respectful, will check on you/offer you water, and give you space when passing. The densest ATVs will be found between Lime Kiln Pass and the town of Mesquite, NV as drivers head into the hills. Prepare for a bunch heading up towards you as you are heading down towards the city.
Cows:
As mentioned in the previous "The Bundys and Cows," cows illegally grazing are prevalent and widespread across Gold Butte. They'll leave you alone if you leave them alone.
Pakoon Springs:
This is a spring located in GC-Parashant. When you get here, read the kiosk, enjoy the hike/trail that loops the spring, and grab some water. If you do go looking for water, be aware that this is habitat for endangered relict leopard frogs. Don't trample the spring or vegetation. The water can be hard to find and marshy, so if this feels like too much work, make sure to carry enough from Horse Springs to get you to Aravada Springs.
Dark Skies:
Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument is an International Dark Sky Province. This means that you can expect to have anywhere between Bortle Class 1 - 3 night skies overhead (even better night viewing during a new moon). The Bortle Class Scale is used to rate night skies on their clarity and lack of light pollution. A Bortle Class 1 is the darkest possible and there are several locations along these routes where, should you camp, you will have this level of darkness. Here, night skies will be virtually unimpeded by artificial light. You can use the following sites to explore more:
23. Route Finishers
If you thru-rode, section-rode, or partially-rode the route, head to the link below to complete a Route Finshers' survey and see who has ridden the route.
